The Hazardous Chemicals Lurking in Black Hair Care Products Here’s what to avoid in “natural” labels—and how protect black hair

by Sasha Jones

In the spirit of sharing, we’ve compiled two lists to help decipher ingredients in hair care products. The former contains essential oils that are particularly beneficial for black hair, and the latter is a roundup of common hazardous chemicals to avoid. It’s hard to find any brands that wholly abstain from sneaking in hazardous ingredients; however, Taliah Waajid, Jane Carter, Cantu, SheaMoisture, As I Am, and 3 Sisters of Nature are all natural hair brands that promote organic, cruelty-free products with few or no harmful chemicals.

When choosing any product, follow the five-ingredient rule: Pay careful attention to the first five ingredients on the list, as they make up over 90 percent of what’s in a product. Keep in mind, not all oils work for everyone, and part of a hair journey involves exploring what works through trial and error.

Healthy Hair Ingredients

  • Aloe vera (contains proteolytic enzymes good for healing scalp problems and stimulating hair growth)
  • Avocado (dermatological benefits for scalp, with vitamins A, D, and E; effectively lubricates hair strand, preventing breakage)
  • Shea butter (a hydrating emollient; protects the hair strand)
  • Castor oil (antifungal; cleans the scalp, clearing follicles and promoting hair growth)
  • Coconut oil (a hydrating emollient that seals moisture around the hair follicle)
  • Extra virgin olive oil (a hydrating emollient and moisturizer, effective at softening hair)
  • Grapeseed (lightweight conditioner and moisturizer; mildly astringent, thus effective at fighting dandruff; easily absorbs into hair and scalp and is packed with healthy fatty acids)
  • Honey (humectant and antifungal)
  • Jojoba (hair strengthener, rich in vitamins C, E, and B; dermatological benefits for repairing scalp dryness and inflammation)

Hazardous Ingredients to Avoid

  • “Fragrance” or “parfum” (this is a widely used smoke screen in the cosmetics industry, denoting a vague mixture of unknown chemicals)
  • Calcium hydroxide
  • Formaldehyde or methylene glycol (formaldehyde is also released by DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea, and imidazolididinyl urea)
  • Lead acetate (common in hair dyes)
  • Methylisothiazolinone
  • Parabens (propylparaben, butylparaben, or methylparaben)
  • Petroletum
  • Retyinal palmitate
  • Specific alcohols:
    • Alcohol denat, ethanol, propanol, isopropyl, propyl, SD alcohol #4 (also known by stylists as wood alcohol)
  • Sulfates
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